A particular favorite is Frank Zappa's Stairway to Heaven b/w Ravel's Bolero - both outtrageous over-worked parodies of the originals. As others have posted, many of these are the best sounding vinyl I have. I bought a lot of used 45s in the 80s and 90s, mainly 70s and early 80s rock. But if you try to cram more than that, then the advantage is gradually lost. Do the maths - cutting less than about 9 minutes on a 45 side allows the engineer to cut at a higher level without crashing the grooves. More than that requires compression of the grooves which reduces dynamic range (but look at the brilliant job Decca did on the Stones' 'Aftermath' that runs 52+ minutes). Some of those recordings remain the best masters we have.Ĭonsider - an LP should not contain more than around 20 mins music per side.
44 RPM VS 33 RPM PROFESSIONAL
Compare with reel to reel tape - 7.5ips is better than 3.75 and professional studios often used 15ips.
44 RPM VS 33 RPM PDF
It's a PDF so you'll need the (free) Adobe Acrobat Reader (or equivalent) to open it.Most have it.Correctly engineered the 45 will always sound better because the higher speed enables more faithful recording of the music. Sounds a lot like the tach is the culprit (if the speed is anywhere near accurate)Ĭlick HERE for the info. If the engine really was turning only 3400 rpm you wouldn't be going 40 mph.
44 RPM VS 33 RPM SERIES
AND judging from your speed (if it's accurate) the engine might be actually turning the correct RPM and you just have a simple tachometer problem.Īccording to the chart for the B series props a 4.3L engine with a 2.30:1 drive will give you somewhere around 40 mph at WOT. It appears that since your drive is a 2.30:1 ratio, A B7 propset might be the correct ones to have. and while it's really a subject for the "Prop" forum, You'll get some pretty good info here and if you have more prop questions you can ask them with some additional info under your belt! I did a little searching around and found a Volvo Penta publication that might answer some questions. If you had "normal" (to me ) props I would say plug it into a prop slip calculator and figure out what you "should" have on that sterndrive. Remote control cables and linkage for proper travel to open throttle plates fully.Engine timing and ignition system operation.Boat overloaded, improperly loaded, or improperly trimmed.Poor cylinder compression Compression Test.Restricted exhaust system (broken exhaust shutters/flappers) in engine transom shield or drive.Restricted carburetor air intake (clogged flame arrestor).Crankcase oil volume, high oil level can cause aerated oil and lifter collapse.Restricted fuel pickup tube or anti siphon valve Fuel System Test.Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades.
You have a lot of things to check besides props. They are really only a rough guesstimate of the actual speed you are going. 40mph might mean nothing if you are using the pitot tube type speedometer. While the B7's are one of the steepest set of pitches you can get, you would have to drop down to a B2 and with luck you might get in range. DO NOT mix inner and out prop sizes, it doesn't work. The pitch and/or diameter of the props are not the same for each, and the props are setup as sets. You should have a 2.30:1 gear ratio for that engine.